Vinous media by Antonio Galloni

JUANARY 2021

Jurosa 2017 – Rating 92
The 2017 Chardonnay Jurosa puts savory spice and minerality first, slowly evolving to show a pretty expression of dried apricot and ginger with hints of roasted hazelnut. It’s silky in texture, balanced by bright acids and yellow citrus, which brings further energy to its notes of ripe apple and pear. There’s a richness that lingers here with hints of almond and brioche, creating a fully satisfying expression from start to finish. Drinking window: 2021 – 2028. E.G.

La Vila 2017 – Rating 92
The 2017 Friulano La Vila is spicy and packed with character. A spritz of lime gives way to crushed stone, pungent yellow flowers, minerals and white peach. It’s textural and deep but with a salty-savory character and structure that reminds me more of white Burgundy than Friulano. Notes of apple, ginger and even a bit of cumin make an appearance, finishing clean and leaving the palate refreshed. Very nice. The La Vila spends eleven months in a combination of stainless steel and 500-liter oak barrels with frequent bâtonnage, which explains much of the character found within. Drinking window: 2022 – 2026. E.G.

Gris 2018 – Rating 91
The 2018 Pinot Grigio Gris is gorgeous. Here I’m finding a dusting of exotic spice and white smoke that blows off to reveal crushed yellow apples and hints of green melon. It’s silky and pliant, contrasted by salty minerality, with brisk acids that enliven its ripe orchard fruits. Hints of vanilla bean, white flowers and a twang of candied citrus linger, making for a fully satisfying finale. Drinking window: 2021 – 2024. E.G.

Picol 2018 – Rating 91
The 2018 Sauvignon Blanc Picol is rich and layered in the glass with a smoky, nutty richness that I’m finding quite attractive. Yellow flowers, dried apricot and peach open the stage, gaining notes of sage and crushed stone to complete the expression. It’s luxuriously soft yet also perfectly balanced by brisk acids, opening more to reveal spiced apple, zesty minerals and pretty inner florals. The cleansing finish frames the finish nicely, leaving a more understated and feminine impression. Drinking window: 2021 – 2024. E.G.

 

JANUARY 2020

Confini 2016
Rating 94
Bright straw color. Perfumed, aromatic nose hints at Gewürztraminer, dominated by notes of rose petal, grapefruit, cinnamon and nutmeg. Rich, dense and complex, with bright juicy cut lifting the saline flavors of spices and ripe tropical fruit. Finishes long with a whiplash of harmonious acidity and repeating spice and intensely floral nuances. A knockout wine. Drink 2019-2023 I.D’A

La Vila 2016
Rating 93
Medium dark-yellow. Aromas and flavors of almond flowers, ripe apple and minty herbs. Fresh but dense and nicely textured, with a lingering pungent herbal note that is fairly true to type. Long, clean and lovely, with a deep multilayered quality and real concentration. Well done. Drink 2019-2023 I.D’A

Lis 2016
Rating 92
Medium deep straw yellow with golden highlights. Sweet spices, gooseberries, and fresh citrus fruits on the nose and in the mouth. Well balanced, fresh and penetrating, this finishes slightly tangy and zingy, with noteworthy lift for such a big, extracted white wine. Drink 2019-2023 I.D’A

Jurosa 2016
Rating 92
Bright straw yellow with golden tinges. Clean aromas of butter, ripe yellow apple, pineapple and herbs. Then also precise and clean in the mouth, with a round and mellow texture but with a building kick of sweet spices on the long, creamy finish. As is almost always the case when tasting Italian Chardonnays, though not bad, this lacks the complexity and depth of the world’s better examples. Drink 2019-2021 I.D’A

Tal Lùc Cuvée .1.292 pts
Rating 92
Bright orange yellow. Very refined, precise aromas of marzipan, peach, papaya, mango and sweet spices. Then slightly tannic but well balanced, with rich yet lively flavors similar to the aromas. This luscious fruit bomb stays light on its feet on the long inviting finish. Very well done. Drink 2019-2022 I.D’A

Gris 2017
Rating 91
Bright straw-yellow with golden tinges. Pear and apple notes on the nose and in the mouth are complicated by hints of wet stones, balsamic oils and fresh herbs. Closes clean fresh and long, with repeating mineral and apple nuances. Drink 2020-2023 I.D’A.

Picol 2017
Rating 91
Deep straw yellow. A big, full-bodied but fresh Sauvignon Blanc, with vibrant gooseberry and sage aromas and flavors. Finishes long with harmonious, zingy acidity and very good clarity, a feature I haven’t always found in this wine, which has been, in my view, all too often all too blurred by high-ish alcohol levels (this vintage clocks in at 13.5% but showcases lovely balance). Drink 2019-2023 I.D’A.

 

MAY 2018

2016 Lis Neris BBK
Rating 92
Light vivid yellow. Pear, fresh citrus, menthol and a hint of spices on the nose. Juicy, bright and surprisingly dense, offering very good cut to the fruit-driven pineapple, tangerine and green apple flavors. Finishes long and vibrant. A knockout Ribolla Gialla, a variety owner Alvaro Pecorari never bothered with much in the past. This wine is made with grapes grown in Slovenia just across the border but the wine is made in Italy at the Lis Neris winery. The BBK in the wine’s name stands for the three towns (Barbana, Biljana, Kozana) where the vineyards are located. An outstanding Ribolla Gialla, and mercifully, not macerated into a would-be red wine oblivion. Drink 2018-2024 I. D’A.

2015 Lis Neris Picol
Rating 90
Bright straw. Herbs, honey and minerals mingle with gooseberry and green fig aromas and flavors. Clean, fresh and long with a tactile nuance to the ripe gooseberry and fig flavors. Finishes long and with plenty of lemony cut and a touch of peppery bite. Drink 2018-2023 I. D’A.

2015 Lis Neris Jurosa
Rating 90
Bright straw color. Slightly muted aromas at first then pick up energy and vibrancy with aeration to offer hints of caramel apple, pear and canned pineapple. Bright and juicy in the mouth, with outstanding cut to the pomaceous orchard fruit flavors. Finishes long and clean with a hint of creamy lemon custard. A lovely wine. 2018-2021 I. D’A.

2015 Lis Neris La Vila
Rating 91
Bright pale golden-tinged straw yellow. Intense aromas of apple, apricot, herbs and dried spices. Rich and dense with plenty of juicy cut lifting the ripe yellow fruit and herbal flavors. Finishes long and clean with a youthfully chewy texture. 2019-2024 I. D’A.

2015 Lis Neris Lis
Rating 91
Bright straw yellow. Fresh easygoing aromas and flavors of apple, pear, canned peach, aromatic herbs and a hint of caramel. Bright and juicy with a lively lemony cut extending the flavors on the long back end. I’d cellar this for another year or two to allow it to pick up weight. A blend of Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. 2020-2024 I. D’A.

2015 Lis Neris Confini
Rating 92
Vivid pale straw. Orange blossoms, grapefruit, honey and sweet spices on the Gewürztraminer-dominated nose. Then fresh and ripe but with plenty of acid backbone to keep this light and lively on the palate. Finishes long and tactile with a honeyed note but also bittersweet elements of peppery spices, peach and pear. A lovely wine. A blend of Pinot Grigio, Gewürztraminer and Riesling. 2018-2024 I. D’A.

 

JUNE 2015

2012 Lis Neris Confini
Rating 94
The 2012 Confini is another Lis Neris classic, even if the blend has evolved considerably in recent vintages. Still the overall impression is of a Gewürztraminer-dominant blend with gorgeous tropical fruit, gingerbread and exotic floral notes wedded to a sense of real textural polish and breadth. Effortless and gracious throughout, the Confini truly dazzles in 2012. Drink 2015 – 2020

2012 Lis Neris La Vila Friulano
Rating 94
A super-refined, polished white, the 2012 Friulano La Vila is all class. Honey, melon, apricot pit and sweet floral notes open up in the glass, all with the extra textural depth from aging in large format barrels. Chamomile and lightly honeyed notes round out the superb, highly expressive finish. Drink2015 – 2019

2010 Lis Neris Tal Lùc
Rating 93
Apricot jam, burnt sugar, dark spices toffee and crème brulee race across the palate in the 2010 Tal Lùc. Voluptuous and generous on the palate, this blend of dried Verduzzo Friulano and Riesling remains one of Italy’s most compelling sweet wines. Drink 2015 – 2020

2012 Lis Neris Lis
Rating 92
The 2012 Lis, a blend of Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, is a classic Lis Neris wine built on texture and layers of flavor. Nothing stands out, as all the elements are masterfully fused together. The 2012 is rich and intense, but never heavy, with Sauvignon most clearly felt in the aromatics, while the Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay come through most clearly in the wine’s mid-palate. Drink 2015 – 2018

2013 Lis Neris Picol Sauvignon Blanc
Rating 92
The green, grassy side of Sauvignon Blanc comes through loud and clear in the estate’s 2013 Sauvignon Blanc Picol. Mint, pine, sage, tomato leaf and crushed rocks all add considerable nuance to the finely sculpted finish. Readers should expect a fairly assertive, focused Sauvignon, yet within the style, all the elements are very nicely balanced. Drink 2015 – 2021

2012 Lis Neris Jurosa Chardonnay
Rating 90
A big, powerful wine, the 2012 Chardonnay Jurosa offers plenty of varietal character and textural richness. As good as the Jurosa is, it can’t match the pure personality and complexity of the best selections in this range. Drink 2015 – 2019

2013 Lis Neris Gris Pinot Grigio
Rating 89
The 2013 Pinot Grigio Gris is a bit one-dimensional in this vintage, with less of the volume and texture it typically offers. Peach, apricot, candied lemon and sweet spices abound in a forward, nicely layered Pinot Grigio to drink over the next few years. Drink 2015 – 2019

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DECEMBER 2013

2009 Lis Neris Confini
Rating 91
Ginger, mango, white flowers, honey and Chamomile are some of the notes that flesh out in the 2009 Confini. As always, the Confini is the richest and most voluptuous of the Lis Neris whites. The decrease of Gewürztraminer in the blend and the increase of Pinot Grigio makes Confini a little less exuberant than it has been in the past, but the wine’s essential personality remains. In this warm, precocious vintage the Confini is all about texture allied to expressive aromatics from the Gewürztraminer.  Drink 2013 – 2016

 

2009 Lis Neris Lis
Rating 91
The flagship 2009 Lis is a Pinot Grigio/Chardonnay/Sauvignon Blanc blend. Apricot, peach, Chamomile, spice, sage and vanilla notes meld together in a pretty, supple white to drink now and over the next few years. The aromatics are very much Sauvignon-inflected, while the Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio contribute the mid-palate and body. Drink 2013 – 2017

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